20
FOOD
The lockdown dozen
At least a dozen new 'lockdown cheeses' are set to
grace the cheeseboards of some of the best UK pubs
and restaurants.
Julianna Sedli from The Old Cheese Room
Faced with huge losses in
business as the hospitality
sector was closed during
successive lockdowns, UK
artisan cheesemakers have adapted
fast to survive, leading to a sudden
boom of creativity and the arrival
of more British cheeses in one
year than ever before. While some
cheesemakers have made new hard
cheeses to store milk for longer
periods, others have produced blue
and soft cheeses to diversify their
ranges for online sales. Following a
recent flurry of new British cheeses,
created in response to the challenges
of the COVID-19 pandemic the
survival story of British cheese comes
full-circle with the re-opening of
the hospitality sector from 17 May,
lockdown cheeses may feature on a
cheeseboard at a hostelry near you.
Or if you've gotten used to helping
yourself at home, then order some in!
1. Lypiatt, The Old Cheese Room,
Wiltshire
Made with ultra-creamy Jersey cow's
milk, this soft, lactic cheese has an
ashed, wrinkly rind and a nice mix of
citrus and buttery flavours.
www.theoldcheeseroom.com
2. Ashcombe, King Stone Dairy,
Gloucestershire
Britain's answer to Morbier, this
supple organic cow's milk cheese has
a line of edible ash running through
the centre and is earthy and savoury.
www.georgeandjoseph.co.uk
3. Holbrook, St James Cheese,
Cumbria
Aged for around six months, this raw
milk goat's cheese is named after
the late, great cheesemaker Mary
Holbrook. Hard, crumbly and with
complex herbaceous notes.
www.thecourtyarddairy.co.uk
12 to try